Legrand - In-Wall TV Power Kit - White

Was replacing my 10 year old LG 42" Plasma TV in my bedroom with a new 48" Insignia LED TV. The previous installers had cut 2 1/2" holes in my wall to route the many A/V cables (pre-HDMI). I was only needing Power and (2) HDMI cables for my new LED TV. However, my old LG had an extra long power cable to go directly to my A/V Surge Protector. The Insignia did not. I needed to get power up behind my new TV. After much research, I decided on the Legrand In-Wall TV Power Cable Strap Kit. And, I decided to install it myself. A stud finder showed that the existing holes were between studs. So, I centered my cutting outlines on the existing holes to consume them and leave behind a clean look. The use of the instruction card as the cutting outline for the large upper recessed box worked great. However, I almost made a BIG mistake when tracing the cuttling outline for the lower receptacle. My first trace was of the outline of the receptacle mount. But, that is the outside line of the mounting flange. Wrong! I realized that I had to trace the notches on all four sides then use my level to extend the lines horizontally and vertically to create my cutting outline box. With the correct cutting outline boxes, cutting the wall went smoothly using a hand drywall saw. But, another complication. There was a plumbing PVC tube running horizontally in the wall about 4" above my lower receptacle. There was room to push A/V cables past it but not for the large power outlet connector that dangles beneath the upper box and mounts to the lower receptacle. I had to take apart the outlet receptacle in the upper box, disconnecting the power cable that attached to it. I taped the wire ends together then passed it up behind the wall from the lower receptacle cutout to the upper wall cutout. I then re-attached the power cable to the upper receptacle outlet. My final 'MaGyver' moment was having to disassemble two wire hangers, join them together then use them to pull my (2) HDMI cables from the top cutout through the bottom. With my cables now passed through, I routed them through the cable openings in the top and bottom receptacles before mounting the receptacles and faceplates above and below. FYI, there are two types of screws to use with the lower receptacle. Use the smaller head screws to attach the power cable connector to the back of the lower receptacle. Use the larger head screws for the faceplate. Total time to install, including two 30 min breaks, was about 4 hours. But, now that I know what to do, I could probably do it in half the time. And, if there are no obstructions in the wall to impede cables and connectors from passing from top to bottom, I could see how one could complete it in an hour. No real pictures provided. End product looks just like what's on the box, except my top box is between my existing TV wall mount. It works great and I'm very happy with the selection of this product and end result.

I mounted a TV on the wall in our bedroom and needed to find some way to hide the cords going to the power and external cable box (HDMI cable connection.) A lot of people cut holes in their wall and run the power cord inside the wall, put a plate on it and call it good. Unfortunately, it's a violation of electrical code to run a standard power cord inside a wall. If there were a fire, there might be issues with your insurance company. It's not worth the risk. I happened to see this product online and as it happened, my nearest store even had one as an open box. After confirming mine had all the parts, I bought it. These boxes do not require an electrician for the installation. They meet code and even provide documentation that references compliance. Basically, they are an extension cord that can legally be placed inside the wall because of the type of wiring and housings provided in the kit. There are two power outlets and an opening for HDMI and other cables behind the TV. Use the supplied template to mark where you want the box behind the TV. It does create a large hole in the wall, so I'd recommend using a stud sensor to determine there are no obstructions inside the wall between the box on top and the box installed at the bottom. The bottom box has a male connector like the plug end of an extension cord. It comes with an extension cord that plugs into the lower box and the other end has a standard plug you connect to a nearby outlet. The area above the plug on the lower box has a blank covering, but if you leave off that covering, there is an opening for your HDMI cable or other low voltage connection to the TV to be routed to any external devices. The one negative I would give it is that if you have a lot of low voltage cabling to run, the opening is pretty small. You may need to install an additional low voltage plate next to this one. For me, this was not an issue, though it would have been an issue for the TV I'd already mounted in our living room. For that one, I didn't have to run electrical as there was already power wired behind the TV. I only had to purchase a set of low voltage cabling plates that provided room for more cables.

Bought this along with a new 55" television that I wanted to mount on my well instead of having it sit on a TV stand. Read the reviews on this and similar products so I knew what I was getting; a two piece solution with one piece mounting in the wall lower, near an outlet, and in upper piece that would mount a few feet above the lower one. The kit provides all needed pieces and mounting instructions, was pretty easy to install; determine where your existing outlet is and where you want to mount your TV. Find a vertical space between wall studs where you will mount the 2 plastic boxes provided. Trace the outlines on the wallboard, cut out the openings. Then you can stick the boxes in and they have screw operated mounting brackets that lock them in the openings. I found it helpful to mount the top box and run my cables from the TV and top through the box into the wall opening, then fish them out the bottom wall opening and though the lower box, THEN put the lower box in the opening itself. This worked great; only comment I have is that with running power, optical video, and 3 HDMI cables, there is plenty of room in the top box, but barely enough room in the bottom. People running more cables might have problems, people running less should be fine. BTW, the bottom box comes with a built in power cable that goes up the inside of your wall opening to the top box, which has a double outlet for power. There is a little stub cable which connects the bottom box to your outlet. I'd definitely recommend this.

This is exactly what I needed when I mounted my TV on the wall. I really didnt want to have to worry about running electricity up to behind the TV and also run the cables behind the wall as well. This did both in one step. In addition, it lets you plug the bottom outlet into an existing surge protector which alleviates any need to hide one behind the TV or not have one at all. If you can work a stud finder, poke saw, screw driver, you can install this. Just be sure you know what is behind the wall, I needed to avoid a refrigerator water line and outlet which was on the other side of the wall where my kitchen was. I avoided them as expected, but found that I had to drill 1.5" pilot holes through a support between the studs in order to fish the cables through. Plan 6 times, measure 2 times, cut once.

This in wall power kit will change the look of your tv setup. If you decide to put your tv on the wall and want no ugly wires showing this is probably going to be the best bang for your buck, although I thought it could be about $30 less. I do live in a townhouse and installed this on the wall that connects with the neighbor and some modification was required. Behind the wall when i sawed out the drywall there was a layer of regular drywall, then fire rated drywall, and after that insulation. Well the screws that come with the kit are too short so I had to use longer screws to screw in the plates. Also, make sure you have some fishtape or and old metal hanger because when you try to feed the HDMI wires or rca wires it will bunch up in the insulation or vapor barrier. Installation took at an hour and 15 minutes. Without having to do any mods and in an non exterior wall it probably would have been about 20 mins to install. Highly recommend this product though!!!

After getting over the anxiety of cutting a large hole in the wall, the installation was simple and the results were professional looking. I think it's the best alternative to having an electrician install a recessed power outlet behind the TV. I had to use a fish tape to get the wires down through the insulated wall, but if you're installing on an inside uninsulated wall it should be very easy. The port in the lower cover isn't very big but I only needed to run one coax cable so it was fine. The maximum distance between the top and bottom boxes is only about 5 feet. The kit works well and the quality is good but the cost seems high considering how simple it is. I would use this product again if needed.

I purchased this kit to make my TV mounting installation look professional. The kit was easy to use and only needed a few basic tools to install it. I would recommend a level, a screwdriver, a drywall saw and a stud finder. I decided I didn't want to pay $500-$600 for a professional installation and I was confident that I could do it myself. I would recommend this kit. Included a picture, keep in mind you might need to do minor touch up to your wall after you are finished.

This in wall power kit is ok if you 1) cant's get an electrician to run power near desired location and 2) you can't find a electrician to do it for a reasonable price. When I found out how big a hole that would be cut in the sheet rock and that the power would actually be jumped from an existing power wall socket to to a path that aligned where the power kit and the jumper would be seen, I called off this plan and called an electrician. It cost me $250 for the electrician and looks way better than using this mount and jumping the power externally to cross studs.