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If you actually care about frequency response, or bottom end impact, you're looking at the wrong system. The sub is maybe a 6.5" driver and probably getting around 15-30 watts continuous at best (the 1000w rating is a bold-faced lie). I couldn't even get enough sub output to balance the the system with the built-in pink noise test. With the sub channel at +6db, measured output with an SPL meter was still -3db below the fronts and surrounds. The remote has a few lit buttons, mostly not lighted. It is an IR remote, so you can use any universal/learning remote to replace it.
Sorry, there was a problem. Please try again later.I'm not sure what you mean in the first question but, the remote is not lighted. You could probably get a universal remote maybe, that would be lit.
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