Cool, refreshing water laps up onto the shore, motioning to you to splash in the waves. You take your board in hand and begin to wade out, the steady flow of the water lapping at you with your every movement. As you paddle farther out, riding the rhythmic swell of the waves, you can feel your adrenaline rising. And when at last you spot the perfect wave beginning to crest, you leap onto your board, find and hold your center of gravity and savor the thrill of the ride.