“We just moved into the Millennium Towers in San Francisco, (you've probably heard of them on the News. We're the new leaning Tower of Pisa). Anyway, we have the new "Silent Stud", Marshmallow Soft Wall. I was wondering if this can mount to them?”
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Hey Danny, I know exactly what you're talking about. We have the same thing, they're called "Marshmallow Wall". They are great for Insulating against Heat Gain/Loss, but, unfortunately, mounting anything more than pictures frames, (using those Blue or red plastic anchors), forgot about it, you'll rip out a part of the wall and whatever you hang, will drop onto your floor. "WORK-AROUND" You're going to have to use Two ea. 2 × 4's in the height of you interior wall. (Subtract 3", to account for the top & bottom horizontal framing). Place your TV mount in the exact location where you want it. Mark that position; set it aside. Take one of the 2 × 4's and place it onto the drywall, vertically, (perfectly measured top and bottom), so that it is centered over the left, or right side, of where your TV mount Lag bolts will be screwed in. Now, using a pencil, draw a line on both sides of the 2 × 4 all the way down, from the Ceiling to floor. (AFTER YOU HAVE CUT YOUR TWO, (2), 2" × 4" BOARDS. USED ONE OF THEM AS THE TEMPLATE FOR THE LINES NEEDED FOR THE CUT-OUT. GO AHEAD AND SET THEM BOTH ASIDE). *(What you are going to do is remove that strip of drywall, 3.5" wide x how ever tall your Ceiling is {- less 3 inches}, to allow for the framing on Top and Bottom). Note: These new Marshmallow Insulated Walls are fabricated utilizing a combination of exothermic foam and specialized H203 Ozone Rich polymers that feel like a dry firm sponge. Once they have dried, they have one of the best insulation and vapor barriers known. The materials are not hazardous or harmful to plants, animals or human beings. Try to remove the Drywall in one long section, use a cutting wheel, and a dremel, if you have one? Try not cutting too deep into the Marshmallow itself. And, don't remove any of the Marshmallow.** ** You're going to know why soon. Repeat the same process for the other 2 × 4 you have marked out, removing the drywall, from top to bottom, leaving the 3 inches - (1.5" at the top and 1.5" at the bottom). (SET UP A PAIR OF SAWHORSES) Get Those Two 2 × 4's. You Need Them Now. With Three, (3), Toggle Anchor Bolts. The Spring Wing type; (6" × 1/4" and a 1/4" Flat Washer), drill the appropriate size holes, through the 2 × 4's, divided into fhree equal sections. Top, Middle and Bottom. *# 1. 6" inches down, from the Top. *# 2. 6" inches up, from the Bottom. *# 3. In the Middle. Go ahead and insert all Six, (6), TOGGLES, Into Both of the 2 × 4's. Remember, you should have Six Drilled Holes, Three Holes in Each Board. Don't forget to put the Flat Washers on Both Sides and Lock down that 1/4 x 20 x 6" Threaded Toggle using a Nut. You're going to need Two 1/4 - 20 Nuts, (One for each board, for each Toggle, so you can lock the Toggle Bolt Firmly in place on both sides of the 2 × 4 ). And when you screw the Spring Toggle onto the Threads, only go onto the threads about One, ( 1 ), Inch. Here's the fun part, (And, it's kind of magical too). With a "Heat Gun", Set on Medium. Run it across one of the 2 × 4's, getting it hotter. If you have a Digital Thermometer? You're going to want the 2 × 4 to be between 130° and 160°. The hotter the better, but, DO NOT EXCEED 180°. The optimal temperature for the wood, would be 145°f. With a room temperature of 75°f. It's easier to have the lumber laying on a sawhorse stand, so your hands are free to use the heat gun, working the length. NOTE: (Lay a short piece of 2 × 4 against the wall, flat on the floor. Your going to use it as a guide very soon). Once you reach your working temp of 130°+ to 160°-, using work gloves to protect from the heat, transfer the warmed 2 × 4 to the cut out. Sit it down on the piece of wood you have on the floor, line it up with the cut out. (HERE COMES THE MAGIC). "Gently Push" the 2 × 4 against, and Into, the Exposed Marshmallow Material. You're going to feel it start to sinking into the Marshmallow itself. Go slow! You have time. Make sure you work the 2 × 4 top and bottom, and your goal is to work it into the Marshmallow wall so that you can Replace the strip of drywall that you removed earlier. You'll know when you're finished, you have the drywall on both sides of the 2 × 4 to guage the depth. Now, once you have it worked in, About 10 to 15 minutes. NOTE: THE Excess Marshmallow Material will be Absorbed into the other Marshmallow Material in the wall. It will not be a problem. It is H203, honeycomb, in microscopic design, that is easily flexible and expanded or contracted by design. Without the heat, you would not be able to press the 2 × 4 into the Marshmallow, AT ALL. And, once it cools, you can hang whatever you want Hang Just About Anything You Want Danny. That Wall will support up to *500 lbs, Hanging Weight. * like shelving, tv stands, etc. After replacing the drywall that was removed, go ahead and spackle it, sand it, finish it, Paint it, you will not know that there's anything behind the wall. If you forget where you placed your supports! You can always locate them with a Stud Location Tool. (MATERIAL LIST) 2 EA. 2" X 4"s ( floor to ceiling), length. 6 EA. TOGGLE BOLTS X 6" LONG. (1/4" × 20). 4 EA. FLAT WASHERS. (1/4") 4 EA. 1/4" X 20 NUTS. 2 EA. SAWHORSE WORKING STANDS. 1 EA. DREMEL, (or similar device). 1 EA. CUTTING WHEEL, for the Dremel. 1 EA. FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER. 1 EA. DRILL MOTOR 1 EA. 1/4" DRILLBIT. 1 EA. HEAT GUN. Okay, I hope that I haven't forgotten anything or missed any steps. I've looked it over a few times and other than confusion, it seems complete. Good luck
Sorry, there was a problem. Please try again later.Hey Danny, I don't see a problem with mounting on your silent stud wall as long as you are mounting into the studs. Do you know if they are wood studs or steel studs? If you have any additional questions please give our customer support team a shout at [email protected] or at 1-800-359-5520, we are happy to help! Thanks, - Haydn @ SANUS
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