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Not all apps are able to cast to the chromecast, but most of the Media related ones are: Netflix, Hulu, Crunchyroll, Youtube, Pandora, etc. For the 2nd question, the chromecast is not able to navigate the internet by itself, but you can cast (stream) what you do on the chrome browser from a laptop to a TV or monitor connected to the chromecast. This means that you could use the TV/Monitor as a 2nd screen for your computer but not as a browser itself. This can be achieved by installing google Chrome and going to settings (the 3 dots on the upper right corner) and clicking "cast". Hope this helps.
Sorry, there was a problem. Please try again later.Not all apps are Chromecast compatible, but the majority are, including the chrome browser on android. Furthermore, you can cast your entire desktop using a laptop.
Sorry, there was a problem. Please try again later.Only certain apps have the capability to cast, however a solution to cast any apps, would be to cast your phone's, tablet's, or computer's entire screen through the Google Home app. Suddenly, all audio and video from your phone will play through your TV.
Sorry, there was a problem. Please try again later.no, but you can browse through your phone apps and it automatically opens the internal google app (youtube, spotify, netflix etc.) for you when you play it.
Sorry, there was a problem. Please try again later.Hi there. In short, most likely it will work yes! If it don't work you can always return it. * "(mobile) device" is a reference to anything with a battery and wireless connection, phone, tablet, wireless media players, laptop and the many others. (Requirement is of course that the wireless device supports "WiFi" & "App Casting and/or Miracast - Screen Mirroring" functionalities. (It should work but many factors make it performance dependant...up to the point it might keep failing) The older the mobile device for Miracast - Screen Mirroring and/or worse local WiFi (congestion) the more likely the Miracast - Screen Mirroring functionality is to fail or display/one-might-experience performance related issues. (I use a Samsung Galaxy S4, works fine for me as long as WiFi/networking performance is doing good and is stable...Internet connection speed not thát relevant for local files and content as long as there IS a connection, unregarded if it is a terrible ìnternet connection) The Chromecast devices support Miracast with other words Screen Mirror functionality... (gen 2 HD and 4K work the best on this, takes some heavy computational power from Chrome Cast and mobile device...Wireless connections tho are usually to blame for failure) (Advized deasond local WiFi network access, 802.11N or better is advisable as well as stable connection on Chromecast treu WiFi if not on Ethernet connected trough powerbrick, same counts for mobile device that is used with Miracast - Screen Mirroring functionality, wireless/networking congestion and stability are the most relevant factors for failure) OR You can also connect to the Chromecast directly over wifi-direct using cast functionality, downside is that it then more then ofthen it is likely to use your mobile dataplan dran from your mobile device. (This is véry likely not the case if Chromecast is connected true powerbrick Ethernet port) Thus Ànything that is not DRM protected can be displayed as long as the device supports universal Miracast /Screen Mirror(ing) functionality. Besides that....the majórity of apps (not all) that are DRM protected are included into the chrome cast device support... Thus apps like Netflix and others WITH DRM content protection will véry likely still work. How do you know something is DRM protected?, Find the key-combo to take a screen shot on your device... Snap a Screenshot of anything you would like to verify being DRM protected... If something is protected by DRM it will display a toast-style notification momentarily, usually on the bottom of the screen of your mobile device. If a Screenshot is taken and appears in the image library (or manually set storage location) it should always work with Screening Mirroring - Miracast functionality...thus with Chrome Cast devices. (Miracast - Screen Mirroring functionality performance is dependent on networking stability and performance....this since it uses a little more bandwith/throughput then other applications and functionallities like casting of app content which is more dependant on the connection from and to the internet) Hoping this helps answering and helping the majority of people, Greetings from a (former) Dutch Geek. And Yes I have extensively used ""Chrome Cast" >>>Gen 1 (F)HD, Gen 2 HD, Gen 2/4K, (Gen 2) Audio Cast"" Problem resolvement; Check your Internet speed, attempt testing your connection stability on all devices. (Preferably on the place/location and in the room you will use them) (((Avoiding wireless connections as much as possible and turning off ALL other devices connected to the Internet that don't provìde the connections will normally terminate any instability...unless ISP connections out-the-door are congested) (Congested ISP connections generally only result in slow Internet, and generally not resulting in instability on most streaming/content services...the (s)lower the connection/networking remaining/unused capacity when in use, the more likely it is to become unstable))) Many mobile devices support wired Ethernet connections via Micro USB like the majority of Chrome Cast devices trough the Net-Power/Powerbrick Adapter. You could try to use the Ethernet wired connected Power Adapter with your mobile device to test the networking speed on the mobile device. (((If supported by/on the mobile device should be able to perform a Google Search without usage of the wireless connections such as WiFi, GSM, LTE, LTE-A, LTE+, WCDMA, HSPDA, 3G, 4G, 4G+, 5G, Bluetooth and others that provide internet and networking related connections wireless...if needed and cannot be avoided for testing reasons, one can remove the SIM card and turn off wifi, retarding a device might help however a mere few devices require SIM card to be allowed access to it's functionality))) ((((( !!!!!! Before attempting any of the suggested below, make sure you know how to reset back to default NAD ìf needed how to set it up afterwards, I record videos of what I do so I can always revert and change back settings altered/setup !!!!!! ))))) Where ever I fail to change back whatever I changed wich generally everyone succeeds in, there is always the recorded videos and Google&YouTube. (Make sure on everything you change you got a way to go back to a former setting/state....or default settings if need be. There are also (geek/)tech apps that allow viewing all local wireless connections available for the majority of devices. The extensive apps can after viewing explanatory videos ofr usage and full utilization of the app be used for checking local WiFi related congestion. This can be spotted by checking for overlapping networks and channels interfering with each-other. There are many free apps to do this, keep an eye on the number of download totals and ratings. (Keep in mind, an app is only as good as it's support, and only as terrible as it's users following and looking up and into explanatory videos and manuals. I myself prefer; "Wifi Analyzer" with the WiFi (look alike) icon/logo and grey (ish) title once installed. (((When using this, keep in mind, you might not be able to persuade or convince your neighbour to change it's Wireless setup/settings....but you can always attempt to change your own networking settings of your Router, access points and/or Modem))) Tip; the more wireless devices in a given area the more likely for congestion/instabilities and/or performance issues to occur. For those with a router or an access point connected to ànd near a ISP modem(assuming used for or with wifi enabled), try turning off the WiFi on the ISP modem and use the one of the router or access point in stead. (In this scenario I took the liberty and assumption of the likely-ness that your ISP modem is less powerful and your router not outdated/very-old) The point of the directly above written is; it is nearly in all scenario's like to cause issues to have several devices that provide a wireless networking (and internet) connection to operate next to one another. In case your ISP modems WiFi capabilities are a lot better then the one of your router or access point...go for the obvious and use the access point or router only for its non-wireless ethernet/Internet functionality and turn wifi off on that device if a other wireless (preferred) connection is available near it. Hoping this helped many and not a mere few. Greetings from a Dutch (former) geek.
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