Samsung - 36" Induction Cooktop with WiFi and Virtual Flame - Stainless Steel

Questions & Answers (40)

• Q: Anyone having issue with excessive power usage? We're seeing it draw 2 amps even when cooktop is turned off and just the breaker is on. Already replaced cooktop once, have had electrician out to check panel / breaker / wire to cooktop. (7 answers)

  A: As someone else posted - this is NOT an issue. I have a second post below with a photo of my clamp meter thinking this was a huge problem. It is NOT A PROBLEM at all! I purchased the little meter shown below for $25 from you know where. You can see it measures "Power Factor". This is the important piece, and not understanding this caused me some alarm and expense. There's a great article from the blog greengumption dot co dot uk slash 2013/03/induction-hobs-the-question-of-standby-and-the-power-factor/ that explains what is happening. I'm disappointed I didn't find this before I put up my original post. So - here's the correction. Due to this concept called Power Factor, your induction stove (and a lot of other technology) may register an amp load on a standard clamp meter wildly different than what it is actually using. This is the "Apparent Power". Without knowing the Power Factor, you are unable to calculate the "Actual Power" used. Setting up this little meter below, you can see my cooktop was on for 10 hours overnight in it's idle state. It looks like it's pulling 2.215 amps, but with a Power Factor of 0.01, it is only using 3.5 watts. This is the actual power. If it were really using 2 amps at 240 volts, this would be over 500 watts. But the proof is in the kWh used shown on the photo, just 0.032 kWh over 10 hours. Since this is a 240v appliance, that's actually 0.064 kWh, or 0.0064 kWh for every hour the stove is on. Let's math that out: 0.0064 kWh x 24 = 0.1536 kWh per day 0.1536 kWh x 30 = 4.6 kWh per month 4.6 kWh x $0.12 per kW = $0.55 per month $0.55 x 12 months = about $6.65 a year I also validated this by pulling meter usage from smartmetertexas dot com which has 2 years of historical data in 15 min usage increments. I looked at midnight to 6 am usage (when the household is sleeping, so everything should be "idle") for the same period year over year before I installed the cooktop and after. Did the same for when I had the wireless timer setup (photo below) installed. After a lot of calculations, I came up with about 4.5 kWh a month difference with the cooktop installed... almost exactly what the little meter with Power Factor is telling me. So - 2 different data collection methods that match outcomes. Now, we could quibble over whether an "off" appliance should be drawing any electricity. Regardless of that, this is well within the realm of reasonable, and about 100X (literally) less than I thought with my very misunderstood first reading with my clamp meter. I hope this helps some folks that consider themselves handy and have some tools like a clamp meter. Don't freak out like I did! Your cooktop is operating quite normally and NOT sucking an enormous amount of electricity when it is off!

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• Q: Cooktop timer off has d0 and beeps sound that will not turn off. How do I rectify this problem? (4 answers)

  A: This is super anoything but its a safty feature. If the controls get wet and stay wet for a certain amount of time it can get locked in the d0 mode, if it gets locked in the d0 mode you have to switch the circuit breaker for your kitching off for 30 sec then back on to reset. If you clean the counter top make sure you put it (child lock) mode so this wont happen.

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• Q: Just want to know which brand of non-stick cookware will work for this cook top? (2 answers)

  A: I went with the "Infinite Circulon Hard Anodized Nonstick Cookware Set", and am very pleased by it. Please note that not all Circulon Hard Anodized Nonstick sets are induction-compatible. "Infinite" and "Symmetry" are, but "Genesis" and "Contempo" are not.

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• Q: Is there a timer for each of the cooktop areas? Can you actually have multiple timers working concurrently? (2 answers)

  A: Great question DH! This model has only one timer. ^Jecca

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• Q: One of the burners is making a sound like it is trying to start but not actually working when on. How do we fix this? It worked fine for the last 4 years (2 answers)

  A: Sounds like the cooktop may need replacing if you want all of the elements to work. Doubtful a tech could fix this in the field.

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• Q: Do I need to have special induction pans and pots to cook on this stove or can I use any pots or sauce pans (3 answers)

  A: You must have pans that stick to a magnet on bottom. The stove is great. I had my doubts about it but it's the best.

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• Q: Can a regular downward draft exhaust be used with this cooktop? (1 answers)

  A: Yes

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• Q: Can the Samsung NZ36K7880U Induction Cooktop work in Europe with a single-pole 220V/230V power supply? regardless of the frequency. thank you (1 answers)

  A: No, Benz, a 3-wire or 4-wire, single phase, 208 or 240 volt AC, 60-Hz, power supply is required on a dedicated double pole circuit breaker of at least 40 amps for the 30” cooktop, and of at least 45 amps for the 36” cooktop. You can check the link below and see page 7 (Before you make the electrical connection) for reference. Installation manual: https://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/EM/201903/20190314211430975/Induction_Install_NZ30K7880U_NZ36K7880U_DG68-00827A-05_EN-MES-CFR.pdf Have a great day, -Ernest-

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