... which were the main criteria that I needed at the time. Had an on hand supply of 10" drivers specced more for sealed than ported, a sub amp, but no easy way to put it all together. I know this unit is meant for automotive use, but I dropped in my drivers, wired up my amp and got more bass than I could possibly use in my space, in a no nonsense, well controlled fashion.
This unit has speaker level spring terminal inputs on each end, one for each driver, each pre wired with an adequate pig tail set of connectors.. The cabinet is divided into two air spaces.
This may cause wiring or other concerns depending on your set up, such as wiring both units in parallel of on amp channel will require you to split speaker wire off ahead of the cabinet's connections, and wiring them in series will be even more complicated, but all easily doable. My setup uses a Dayton APA150 amp, meant for home theater, which has switchable modes, so I've activated its crossover section, which is variable, but left it in stereo mode which effectively lets me run this sub as a stereo pair. This makes only little difference with the drivers so close together, even in my nearfield use, and will make no difference at all in a more traditional car install. In my case, it was just the convenient way for me to get things working.
On the down side, the cabinet is built fairly lightly, so you get a significant amount of cabinet resonances, though this isn't much of a concern for a car installation. For hi-fi, some internal bracing and other damping would be necessary to extract the best sound quality from this cabinet, none of which I've attempted yet as I'm only running drivers of adequate quality and very low dollar value in there now.
I also think that maybe the price is a touch high. At $80, I would have expected perhaps the next thickness up in plywood construction. However, the carpet exterior (which is actually black, not the more common charcoal) is of perfectly adequate quality.